Day 79: The Dreaded Loup Loup Pass

Last night I had a decision to make:

A Tailwind was predicted all day. I could sleep in late, get started around 10am and fully utilize the tailwind so as to make the climb up to the dreaded LOUP LOUP PASS a little easier. OR... I could wake up early and get started before the wind gets into full swing. The danger with option #1 is that if the wind doesn't act as predicted, then it could make for a really awful day of climbing. So I guess it all boils down to a matter of trust. Do I trust the weather report, or not?

Well... The decision was pretty much made for me when I discovered that USA was having a mini MONK marathon. I stayed up til 3am watching MONK and woke up the next morning tired and with a self loathing so thick, not even a 30 minute shower could make me clean again. What is it that makes that show so damned WATCHABLE?!

Breakfast at McDonalds was good. There was a Wal-Mart across the street, but I didn't need anything just now. I know this will also be an unpopular statement, but I have grown to love Wal-Mart. Obviously I think we should keep them out of already thriving towns and cities, but every time I run into one in some backwater town it's like being home again. Like a chain of GIANTS that watch over me while I am on the road. The lights are always on, the inside always familiar, and the greeter always has a smile and good word for me.

...What's that? ...An extremely low priced T-Shirt a small Chinese child hand-made just for me?

...Yes! I would like one! Thanks Wal-Mart.

The road to Okanogan was a fun ride. Slightly downhill, picturesque, no traffic. The climb up Loup Loup started out REALLY REALLY hard. The route takes you off Hwy 20 and then when it rejoins, it becomes a hellish stretch of uphill that will completely destroy your faith in your own ability to make it up the hill.

Slowly, it becomes a little less steep, and then you go downhill for a mile on a pretty steep grade, and then start climbing again. It's like they're just messing with you. I was very slowly pedaling my way uphill, flirting with the idea of walking the bike when from around the corner comes two people on Motorcycles. They see me, and slow down, and then wave. I'm at a loss for about 3 seconds before I remember that my Uncle Rob and Aunt Beth both ride motorcycles, and in fact did their own cross country ride not too long ago. I pull over onto a very large 'truck pullout' and in fact I was right, it was Rob and Beth. (Editorial Note: This would have been a good time to take a picture)

Beth had made me some lunch, and Rob offered to take a large chunk of my gear back to their cabin in Winthrop. I've never been quite so happy whilst facing another 7.5 miles of uphill climbing. I start back again, and the weight difference made so much more of a difference than I would have guessed. The climb is still difficult, but manageable. I start to smell fire as I reach the top. Turns out they are doing a controlled burn of the entire area. I stopped and ate lunch at the pass. I had ONE bite of the Gas Station sandwich I had bought and immediately threw it out. The Mayo had a greenish yellow tint to it that scared me. In fact, for the rest of the day, I become paranoid at the slightest rumble in my stomach. So grateful to have the soup, cheese/crackers and fruit that Beth prepared. So good.

I went flying down the other side of the Mountain into a thick cloud of smoke. The downhill was a blast. It took me pretty much straight into Twisp. I rode a backroad into Winthrop. The Methow Valley is absolutely beautiful. It's like a desert canyon with a river that runs down the center bringing everything to life. The colors are amazing. It seems to get better, the further you travel up the valley. Really, Really beautiful. I am again grateful to be riding in the fall; especially now that the weather has stopped acting like a petulant child. It's a great day.

In Winthrop I stock up on Diet Coke and Rob comes driving up the main street in his truck. He gives me a lift back to the cabin and shows me around. It's a really neat place. He and Beth have a cabin on the river, two horses, and really great dog that gets way too excited, way too easily. It's seriously the sort of place where you could lose track of time for months or years. Pretty ideal. Rob mentions maybe going Mountain Biking tomorrow, which is pretty exciting, but also a little scary. Beth makes dinner, and it's such a welcome contrast to the filth I've been eating these last few months. It seems the only time I eat well is when I stay with other people.

It's good to catch up, considering I haven't really hung out with my extended family in about 15 years. Rob and Beth are pretty great, and if I had to create some sort of ranking I have a hunch that they might be my favorites, but I guess I should reserve my judgment until I spend time with everyone. Hear that Dickson clan? The bar has been set pretty high.

Tomorrow is a day off; maybe Thursday as well. Tonight IN RAINBOWS comes out... I don't think I need to say how excited I am for that. Today was a good day.